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In Venice, a bacaro is a workingman’s pub where snacks called cichetti are served in small plates, and wine is served in a commensurately small glass (“ombra” in the local dialect). Historically, bàcari were simple places: small, dark canteens where a Venetian’s thirst for wine could be quenched and his appetite calmed – as early as 9:00am – after a long morning’s work, or in the evening hours before dinner. Nowadays, though some bàcari have become quite elegant, and in many places, cicheti have evolved into elaborate delicacies, the bàcari still maintain the authenticity and joyfulness of their simple origins.

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May, 2024

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